Central American coffee season is now upon us. In the coming weeks we'll be welcoming back past favorites from Costa Rica, Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua.
First up, it's TWO Panama coffees. Both from the El Machete project, but dramatically different cups.
Panama Machete (Washed Process)
Acidity: Crisp
Flavor: Fresh berries, currant
Body: Juicy, clean
Finish: Almond, sweet spice
Panama Machete (Pulped Natural aka "Semi-Washed")
Acidity: Balanced, anchored
Flavor: Dark berries, fig, molasses
Body: Full, round, stout-like
Finish: Lingering, cocoa, toffee
The difference between the two is how their processed.
In a washed process (common in the Americas and Africa), ripe coffee cherries are de-pulped (removed from the skin) and fermented in a tank for 12 to 36 hours before they are washed with clean water and any remaining mucilage is then scrubbed off. Once cleaned, the coffees are set to dry on concrete patios or elevated screens. Coffees produced this way showcase the acids that give coffee its complexity. This is usually sensed on your palate as a bright and refreshing sensation.
In the pulped natural process (common in Brazil), coffee cherries are de-pulped to remove the outer skin then set immediately to dry, without any wet fermentation stage. The sticky-sweet inner layer of mucilage which is normally broken down and scrubbed off in wet processing instead clings to the seed throughout the long drying process and influences the dry fermentation.
Pulped natural coffees generally feature more intense fruitiness and big sweetness. Descriptors often include cherry, raisin, plum and ripe berry. The pulped natural process also works to reduce the coffee's organic acidity, which allows characteristics in the flavor profile to stand out in ways they cannot when acids are dominant.
The primary reason why we don't see more pulped natural coffees from regions outside Brazil is that the process is riskier. The presence of sugars in the sticky mucilage increases the risk of compromised quality from rotting fruit or invasion of microorganisms. This process is only recommended in areas where the climate provides consistent sun and low humidity during the critical drying stages.
In the case of the El Machete, the natural pulp process worked because of the farmer's (Juan Pablo Berard) attention to detail - using a raised bed under a translucent canopy that let sun through but kept the beans dry. Beans were turned frequently throughout the process to ensure even drying.
You can read more details about the El Machete project here.
But enough from us and our roaster. The best way to find out which one you like best is to taste them both! We have both in stock now. We will be offering the pulped natural as a featured coffee of the day a couple of times this coming week, but either can be enjoyed any time as a press pot, Chemex or Cafe Solo.
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